Rashida B., Ramy Gafni say tweezing best for brows

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Wednesday, 13 January 2010 20:13

Rashida B. putting the finishing touches on a client

Waxing, threading, razor methods not healthiest for brow shaping

By Nichole Nichols, My Salon Scoop writer

Nothing pulls a flawless face together more than a pair of well-groomed and precision-shaped brows.

A true hair-nista never neglects her brows, but she also should make sure that her hair removal method of choice isn't harsh and abrasive on her skin or creating issues that may be hard to correct in the future.

Although many hair and nail salons have made waxing a popular and very accessible way to shape brows, highly sought after brow stylist Rashida B. warns against some of the trauma that waxing can put your skin through.

"I prefer tweezing as opposed to waxing. The long-term affects of waxing include premature wrinkles and sagging around the eye area due to the inflammation and tugging," says the Chicago-based owner of The B Spot eyebrow grooming studio, which has been featured in Vogue, InStyle and Lucky magazines.

According to her Web site, www.RashidaB.com, Retinol users, such as those who use Accutane or Retin A, or those who receive regular chemical peel treatments, should completely steer clear of waxing. These treatments weaken the skin and make it more likely that injuries such as tearing can occur during waxing.

Choose your eyebrow shaping technique wisely (Photo credit: iStockphoto)

"Waxing is fine on other parts of the body where you want to remove ALL the hair and where the skin is less delicate," says New York-based makeup artist Ramy Gafni whose clients include Gabrielle Union, Naomi Campbell, Holly Robinson Peete, Veronica Webb as well as The Oprah Winfrey Show. Gafni says the waxing technique doesn't provide enough precision to effectively shape brows.

Another brow shaping technique that has recently grown in popularity is threading, which involves removing the hair using cotton threads rolled across the area of unwanted hair resulting in them being removed by the root. The uniqueness of the method may draw you in, but Rashida B. cautions those who decide to give the ancient Middle Eastern technique a try.

"Personally I believe that threading causes follicular damage at a much higher rate due to the force in which hairs are extracted," she says. "When performed properly, tweezing is the best method and results can last up to three to four weeks."

Gafni agrees that while threading may be unique, there can be some cons to it.

"Threading is the ancient method that was used in Eastern Europe and the Middle East for years before tweezers were invented," he says. "While effective, threading is painful and sometimes the hair breaks instead of coming out at the root, leading to a messy regrowth, as opposed to the streamlined regrowth you get with a proper tweezing and trimming. I believe threading is a popular trend at the moment because it's novel and inexpensive."

However, according to the Web site of I-Too Salon in Atlanta, Ga., which specializes in the threading technique, threading is less harsh than waxing because it does not strip off the top layer of skin. The site also states that threading is a natural method that is better for clients with sensitive skin, which also creates clean lines with precision.

The razor method of shaping brows in which a special razor is used to shave away hairs to create a desired shape is not recommended by Gafni even though it is an old standby that many women learn when they first start grooming their brows.

"I am very opposed to the razor method. I find that when a razor is used the hair grows back looking more like stubble," he says. "For people on a budget, I do recommend having brows shaped well by an expert and then following the line at home."

Ramy Gafni with celebrity client, Gabrielle Union

For more of Gafni's brow-shaping tips, visit his Web site at www.RAMY.com.

Regardless of the technique that your brow-shaping guru uses, make sure they have an esthetics license, which most states require for any type of hair removal.

Your brows are given their best shape when factors such as your hairstyle, face shape, facial features and lifestyle are taken into account. So, seeing a professional stylist is key to achieving a look that is perfect for you.

In terms of the season's most popular shapes, Rashida B says it's less about following fads, but thicker brows seem to be better.

"I wouldn't call it a trend. I would more so attribute it to the revelation that fuller brows are simply more flattering on most people," she says.

A Rashida B. eyebrow shaping session can cost you $80, and in between professional shaping sessions, she recommends using tweezers to remove stray hairs. One of the most recommended tweezer brands is Tweezerman, which you can find for about $12 at Ulta.com. Make sure you are tweezing hairs in the direction that they grow to avoid ingrown hairs.

Nichole Nichols is a freelance writer who has written previously for MySalonScoop.com as well as Pink Magazine. She is based in Greensboro, N.C.