| Stylists differ on keratin treatments for black women |
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| Healthy Hair | |||
| Wednesday, 26 May 2010 00:00 | |||
Kkeratin treatments for textured locks? (Photo credit: Getty Images)
High-heat process questionedNichole M. Palmer, My Salon Scoop editorEvery new product or technique that hits the market isn't for everybody nor is it for every hair type, which includes the newly touted keratin treatments says 30-year hair veteran Patrick Wellington of the Wellington Hair Spa in New York.
He says he's against it for "black women's hair because the process is too damaging—too much heat. If you're going to put a chemical in and then press and press and press—it's too much. It's good for certain textures, but not all textures."
High-heat process
The process is not a relaxer, but can go on top of a relaxer or color-treated hair. If properly applied by a knowledgeable stylist, the treatment should not change the texture of the hair. The procedure does, however, coax the hair into becoming more manageable and less frizzy. It will reduce the natural curl and bulk, and is said to help strengthen and soften the hair so it will become healthier over time.
Client in her natural curly state. (Photo courtesy of Jordana Lorraine)
BB experts set record straight
"Sad to say, it comes down to stylist error," says Jordana Lorraine, a stylist with Dino-Clark Salon in Santa Monica, Calif., has worked with BB since 2008 and been a stylist since 1995. "If you use any chemical wrong, the process will go wrong."
Under her care, her clients who have had damaged hair experience an almost complete reversal. "It will start to put life back into the hair again," she says.
As with any of these treatments, Jordana Lorraine says, it's best to find a stylist who is experienced with your hair texture. It's about getting a stylist who can work with your hair in that product. "It can work with all hair types, but it doesn't give the same results with all hair types."
She works primarily with Caucasian, Latino and European women. When she does work with women who have virgin hair or whose hair is tightly coiled, she doesn't use the BB product. Instead, she uses the medium strength or strongest strength Global Keratin treatment, which has 2 percent or 4 percent formaldehyde respectively as part of the chemical makeup. BB is formaldehyde free and uses a proprietary polymer system instead. 
Client after air-dry post keratin treatment. (Photo courtesy of Jordana Lorraine)
For black women with tight coils who want to try the product, understand that your hair will not get bone straight, Jordana Lorraine says. Instead, the coils will have a better definition.
Stylist Alec Kara, who often works with African American women using the BB product, says having a realistic understanding of what the product can and cannot do is best for all involved. Kara, a stylist with Argyle Salon and Spa in West Hollywood, Calif., learned this first hand under creator Mauricio Ribeiro. Working with him taught Kara what the product can do with certain hair types.
It's been his experience, he says, that the Brazilian Blowout works easiest with natural blondes. Latinas whose hair is thick, but not so frizzy, the BB will take away the bulkiness. Women with color-treated hair, the product works well because the color chemical has opened the cuticle.
Women with kinky or tightly coiled hair, the Brazilan Blowout will get rid of the bulkiness, but not eradicate all of the curl. Kara says that for the product to truly take on black hair, he suggests coming back after two months for another treatment. Then, come back in three months. At that time, the BB process would have adhered to the hair well.
"Virgin hair is the tricky because the cuticle is closed," Kara says. "I would do a mild relaxer on the hair and then a Brazilian Blowout." The reason he used to do this is because the relaxer would act as a bonding agent for the keratin to seal onto the hair. But the more he worked with the keratin treatment, the more he learned to use the BB without a relaxer.
Brazilian Blowout stylist lists Halle Berry among his celebrity clients. (Photo credit: PRPhotos.com)
Alternative to keratin treatments
Instead, Wellington prefers sticking to relaxers. "Black women have been using relaxers for centuries. You can use a milder product and get the same result.
If you just must have the bone straight look, he suggests getting a texturizer. Then, blow-dry and flat iron the hair. "It won't damage the cuticle of the hair, and it's not all the way broken."
In the end whether you choose to try the keratin treatment or not, always ask questions. He urges women to get a consultation with the stylist before any process is conducted. Find out how they were trained. Ask how many other clients he/she has with your hair type. Find out the type of conditioners that will be used on your hair. And as always with a new stylist and product, ask how often you need to come into the salon to keep your tresses healthy.
Nichole M. Palmer is a writer, editor and president/artistic director of Our Voices, LLC—a writing and editing consulting firm/entertainment studio in Gary, Ind.
Copyright 2010 © My Salon Scoop, LLC
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Comments (13)
  written by ann stolden, June 15, 2010
why do bleck peoples hair get trangle at the end, is it bc it need to be relax at the end.
written by editor, June 16, 2010
Hi Ann,
Not sure what you mean. Are you talking about hair that normally tangles, or are you talking about hair that tangles after doing the keratin treatment? Please elaborate. Thanks!
written by BUTTER, June 17, 2010
I have in between type of hair too good to be bad but too bad too be good, thats how i describe my hair its not thick but but thin would keratin be a good product for my hair?
written by taylor, June 30, 2010
why would that stylist recommend a relaxer when it permanately changes the hair and will NEVER revert back to the original curl pattern? at least the bb will allow the hair to still have the natural curl i think his reasoning saying the heat is no good what about strecthing the hair to within an inch of its life then blowdry it and flat iron it yeah that's alot less heat stylist like him are the reason why black women are never able to grow long hair
written by Carri, July 08, 2010
I am trying to find an easier way to grow out my childrens permed hair. They are 12 and one of them has a bald spot from perming. They are mixed (black and white) and have really long hair that I don't want to just cut off. Is this a good way to transition or will it only damage it more?
written by Dbails77, July 08, 2010
What do I know but the relaxer sucks big time!!!! I can't imagine keratin being any worse. We are probably just trading evils at this point. I'm growing out my relaxer and I cat tell you how good my scalp feels!!! No more crazy itching!!! I just can't do it anymore at least not right now. My scalp has had it!
written by editor, July 16, 2010
Hello ladies,
I have been reading your chat. Please hear me when I say this: Too much heat on black hair is not good. That is the bottom line. Yes, there are all types of processes. However, you have to make an intelligent decision about the health of your hair. It's not about trading evils. It's about finding a stylist that knows the history of your hair and can help you keep it healthy. The BB process is fine for certain hair types. Not all hair types. Relaxers on children of a certain age aren't completely recommended. We've done a few stories on that subject. Now, as a help to our hair-nistas, we have a lengthy list of stylists across the country who our readers have given the thumbs up. See if any of them are in your area and go to them about how to treat your hair and how to help you with your daughter's bald spot. I hope this clears up any questions. As always, keep writing and chatting. We want to know what's on your minds and help you make healthier decisions, for healthier hair. Take care, NMPalmer, editor
written by Kerri W, October 05, 2010
I recently began using the Volume Conditioner, from Shielo, which is known for having alot of keratin in it. It works wonderfully, especially as a reconstructor. I can definitely tell a difference in my hair. Before my hair was brittle and damaged. Due to over-processing with chemical relaxers, my hair was breaking off. Since using the Shielo Conditioner, I've noticed that the breakage has stopped. My hair has become stronger and healthier. Currently I use the product weekly, but once my hair gets back to normal, I will probably use less often and start using leave-ins. Since my hair is very coarse, I leave it in for 10 minutes instead of the recommended 2 minutes. I can definitely attest to this product contributing to my hair growth.
written by Jeff Cardarella, April 16, 2011
To learn more about proper ventilation control measures for hair smoothing services view Aerovex Systems 3 Zone Ventilation Video ~ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_g_KCJ2hO8
written by Greg, May 20, 2011
What I am noticing is that more and more black women are choosing not to get perms, relaxers, or any kind of chemical in their hair. A lot more are getting locks, wearing in natural, etc. Then on those days when they don't feel like messing with their hair they just put on lace front wigs for black women.
written by cynthia borden, August 07, 2011
My daughter got the keratin treatment last year and it worked very well. Her hair was shiny and very healthy looking. She wore braids for years and wanted something different. We only got the treatment once and she got her done every 3 weeks. She is getting it again in a few weeks. I can't imagine getting this done every 3 months. I had a perm for over 20 years and decided to go natural again so I've been permless for five years. I love my hair but now I want something different tired of braids but I need something that holds up because I do work out and sweat.
written by Naturalheart, May 03, 2012
A MILD RELAXER?????????????????????????????????>
 I DONT THINK SO. WHY WOULD TAKE THE TIME TO GROW MY RELAXER OUT ONLY TO LET THE HAIR DRESSER PUT IT BACK IT. MILD OR NOT IT IS A RELAXER. BLACK PEOPLE GOING NATURAL GOT HAIR DRESSERS RUNNING AROUND LIKE A CHICKEN WITH YOU HEAD CUT OFF SO THEY JACK THE PRICE UP ON A KERATIN TREATMENT TO MAKE UP FOR THE LOST IN NOT DOING AS MANY RELAXERS
written by NOLA Darling, May 05, 2012
As someone who wore her hair natural for more than a decade, and then decided to try the the QOD keratin treatments for a change, I found that over time the curl pattern became permanently looser and in some sections never really returned. When my hairdresser explained to me that repeated flat ironing permanently alter hair texture, I realized that I had to either relax/texturize my entire head or cut it all off and start from scratch. Not wanting to do another "big chop" I just opted to go the relaxer route.
Another thing I discovered about keratin treatments is that once you start getting them, you need to keep getting them to keep your hair from breaking off because your hair becomes so damaged from the heat used to seal the keratin which in turn is needed to protect your now fragile hair. So even though I opted to just get a mild texturizer, my hair was so fragile from the keratin treatments that I have had to spend the last year inch-by-inch cutting off all the keratin treated hair. The bottom line is that while relaxers immediately alter your hair, repeated keratin treatments will eventually alter it any way but with more risk for damage.
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