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Heed warning signs to stop thinning hair

Healthy Hair

Wednesday, 20 July 2011 00:00

Daryle Bennett, New York celebrity stylist

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Over-processing, poor diet among hair damage contributors

By Daryle Bennett, celebrity stylist

Nothing spoils a hair-nista's carefully pulled together look quicker than a head full of lack-luster locks. Hair challenges-thinning, dryness, hair breakage-may be a nuisance, but to 20-year celebrity stylist veteran Daryle Bennett, they are warning signs screaming for immediate attention.

Q: What are the early signs that hair loss and/or thinning is occurring that women often miss?
A: The first sign of hair loss or thinning is that the hair breaks very easily. This means you'll find hair in your brush or comb. If you find a brush or comb full of hair after every use, that is excessive hair loss. Your hair may feel dry or brittle. Women often ignore this sign because they are more interested in achieving a certain style. When they see hair in their brush or comb they dismiss this as a sign of a larger problem. most people hope it will stop and dismiss it as normal. If you find large amounts of hair on your brush or comb inquire with your stylist or dermatologist immediately. However, hair loss is a process and if caught early can be stopped in most cases.

Q: Outside of genetics and medication, what types of habits do clients practice that contribute to hair damage?
A: 1. Over-processing the hair with relaxers or color.
2. Lack of proper hair conditioning treatments.
3. Never having the scalp cleansed or treated.
4. Having an unbalanced diet. When you don't eat properly it shows in your hair and skin. Eating fruits and vegetables will help restore your hair to its natural beauty.

Q: What steps do you take as a stylist to help repair damaged relaxed and natural hair?
A: When repairing damaged hair, I generally start with a one-on-one consultation with my client. I'm looking for problems a client may be experiencing such as hair breakage or loss. I ask questions like: When was your last chemical service? Did you get a relaxer or color? Have you had prior problems with hair loss or breakage? Do you have a balanced diet? Do you drink plenty of water? Are you on any medications? Has your scalp been itching? What are your expectations during your visit?

Pay attention to early signs of thinning. (Photo credit: iStockPhoto)

Next, I begin a series of treatments that may include, scalp cleansing, or hair repair treatments. When repairing hair breakage, I use super re-constructors like Johnson's Ultra Sheen Duo Tex Protein Conditioner, which is a protein treatment. My favorite products are Jane Carter Solution's Nourish & Shine and Wrap and Roll.

Re-constructors are made to stop breakage and strengthen the hair. These products go into the cuticle layer of the hair when used with heat. By using these re-constructors, a client will see results like healthier, thicker hair and less fragile hair in two visits or over a four-week period.

For dry hair, I use moisturizing conditioners like Affirm's 5 in 1 Reconstructor as well as its Positive Link Conditioner. Sometimes, I use a combination of super re-constructors and moisturizing conditioners. These products will add shine and elasticity to the hair.

If there is a scalp issue, I use products like HLCC Scripts DHT-Inhibiting Bio-Therapy Shampoo, which remove the debris and dirt from the follicle that may have built up over many years. This build up will cause hair to become very weak as it grows. This is what causing hair to break or thin. Scalps must be scrubbed and cleaned like the rest of the body. Last, but not least, a good haircut might be necessary to start a client on her way to healthy growing hair.

Q: After seeing you, what follow-up steps do you recommend that clients take at home to facilitate hair repair?
A: For at-home hair care, I recommend products that will add moisture as well as products for the scalp that can be applied daily to keep the hair in great condition. Nioxin has great hair-repair treatments. In fact, the line's Follicle Booster can help feed this area with nutrients so hair grows out stronger.

Q: As hair recovers from the trauma, what types of styles can hair-nistas rock to look great, but give hair a breather?
A: Clients in recovery should stay away from the heat of curlers, flat irons and gels or sprays that contain alcohol. Styles they can rock include pony tails, wraps, bobs and molded looks are best for hair in recovery.

Daryle Bennett is a 20-year industry veteran located in NY and NJ whose work has appeared in Essence, British GQ, Jane, XXL, Black Sophisticates and GQ to name a few. His celebrity clients include: B. Smith, Jessie Martin, Wanda Sykes, Queen Latifah and Angie Stone. His personal motto is found in Psalm 20:17 in the Bible: "And let the beauty of the LORD our God be upon us, And establish the work of our hands for us; Yes, establish the work of our hands." Contact him through his website: www.dblifestyle.com.